Chiang Mai and lovin life

Once it was time to leave the island we travelled all day by ferry and mini bus from Koh Chang to Bangkok and I was finally able to get a good night's sleep.  Then, we woke up the next morning and tried to book an overnight train for the following night- no such luck.  We were told if we wanted to get to Chiang Mai we had to leave that same night and catch an overnight sleeper train.  Ugh!  I was frustrated from the constant travel but once we got on the train and got moving it wasn't so bad.  I opted for the top bunk and Brad slept on the bunk below me- our "cabin mates" were a crazy Canadian named Jeffrey and a Thai man named Ong who made fun of Jeffery's large girth for most of the trip.  He would make these jokes about Jeffery tipping the train and then laugh hilariously- awkward and yet funny.  Thirteen hours later we finally arrived in Chiang Mai, one of my favorite places in the world.  I had booked a guest house based on the advice of Trip Advisor and when we arrived I was just so glad to be there that we threw our bags down and quickly left for breakfast.  Exhaustion set in and when we went back to our room that afternoon we were greeted with several surprises.  First of all, ants in the bathroom.  Not that big of a deal as I have grown accustomed to random ants helping themselves to my accommodation.  Even though they are not paying for the place I figure they were probably here long before I arrived.  But when I went to pull back the sheets I found that a yetti had previously occupied the room as well.  There were hair on top, and underneath, of the sheets.  I am not kidding- there were at least 30 hairs in various colors and sizes.  Also there were hairs littering the tile laminate of the floor.  Brad promptly went and grabbed the manager, who made someone come and "change the sheets" even though I still found another few hairs later.  Okay, I'm hanging on, I'm okay.  As I sat underneath the one fluorescent light bulb on the ceiling I contemplated how so many people on trip advisor got it so wrong.  The door didn't even close all the way and there were at least six mosquitoes floating around the room.  I finally laid down (in my little travel sheet) and then the real pain began.  Construction was taking place right next door and I began to hear non stop sawing through metal.  There was both power sawing, and manual sawing.  It was relentless and I felt like I was suddenly under some sort of torture plan.  I will tell you whatever you want to know please, please just make the sawing stop.  I went into the bathroom only to realize there was NO glass, only a screen covering the window with a tiny sheet of corrugated plastic.  Now I see why they required us to pay two nights in advance.  This place was like a tiny piece of hell.  I went downstairs, politely asked for my money back for the second night, and he agreed only after charging me a 50baht room cleaning fee.  I had to just laugh at this point, and we got the hell out of there.  Highs and lows.

I swore to stay positive and it paid off- the next day turned out to be great.  We booked a great little guest house with a balcony and air conditioning.  We went to visit one of the many Wats (temples) found in Chiang Mai and it ended up also being a charity school for monks of various ages.  I tromped through the front gates, went and found the director, and explained I was a teacher in America and wanted to look around the school.  He graciously agreed and Brad and I were free to wander around visit with the kids.  Thank you, Jeff Garbin, for one of the best life lessons I ever learned- always ask because the worst thing someone can tell you is no!  We ended up sitting with a group of thirty or so boys training to be monks (all dressed in the orange robes) as they chatted and laughed with us, stealing glances at my bare shoulders every so often!  I wasn't planning on going to such a spiritual  place when I dressed in a tank top.  They were funny and reminded me of teens in America, laughing and playing around with one another.  They were very sweet and tried to answer our questions about living in Thailand and their futures.  These are the memories and experiences I treasure the most- the times I am allowed into people's lives and go off the beaten tourist path. There were no other "white people" there and no one wanted anything, other than to practice English for a little while.  After we finally moved on I went and took a nap, Brad got a massage while I got a facial, and then we went and ate a $7 meal.  Classic!

Yesterday we rented bikes and tooled around the city for hours.  I have been told after our last accident we are done with motorbikes (Brad threatened to call my parents if I tried) and so we had a blast riding something we could control.  We went to another Wat by the river and lit candles with prayers for happiness.  Then we saw a man who was holding pigeons and wandered over to see what it was about.  You would just put food in your hand and they would fly over and land on you.  Brad was pretty good about it and had four pigeons on his arm at one time.  Pictures to follow soon!  I only held one before I had a freakout about bird flu and the sideye they kept giving me.  I just don't trust things with beaks who can give you the one eyed business.  

In Thailand there are all sorts of religious things people do for good luck and redemption.  Donations, lighting candles, buying packages for monks are a few of the more "normal" things.  Buying a bird and releasing it from a cage is a funny one (remember that Beth?) but my new favorite includes catfish.  While Brad was being the bird whisperer a couple came down by the river with a bag full of catfish.  I politely asked them if that was their dinner and they looked at me like I was nuts and replied it was for good luck.  I laughed and they invited Brad to help them release the catfish back into the water.  He obliged, and the couple stood praying for a moment.  As a Western person I was struck by this act.  So, someone catches some catfish, someone else comes along and buys them to release them back into the water, so that someone can catch them again and sell them (or fry them up at the market).  One of those funny little things that makes me love Thailand even more.  However, if this act makes someone feel happy and fulfilled then I am all about it.

We met up with Ingrid last night,  a friend from Denver who is living in Chiang Mai for the past few years.  It was so wonderful to see her and feel like I had a friend from home.  She took us to a few of her favorite places and we also got to meet some of her lovely bandmates.  All in all it has been a wonderful few days.  I have not even talked about the amazing food we have been eating, as that will have to be a whole blog in itself.  The fresh fruit shakes I drink every day fill my heart with such joy.  I wish I could put some pictures online but the gentleman next to me just warned me that the internet cafe gave his USB a virus- no thanks.  Hopefully I can find a safe computer sometime soon to upload a few for you to enjoy.  Tonight we are off to the Saturday night market for some delicious street food!  Keep living, loving, and enjoying life.